4 Cambodian temples that aren't Angkor Wat
The square stone walls, lion sculptures and octagonal
towers of Sambor Prei Kuk are fighting a losing battle against the
jungle.
But Cambodia today -- and the 12th-century temple complex that sits at its geographic, historic and spiritual heart -- is awash with tourists.
More than 640,000 visited in the first three months of 2012, with archaeologists claiming the UNESCO World Heritage Site is being loved to death.
Yet there are dozens of Angkor-era temple complexes in Cambodia that receive a fraction of the visitors Angkor Wat gets, some of which you can have all to yourself.
These are four of the most impressive.
Phnom Chissor
Start training now. To get to the top of Phnom Chisor, visitors have to climb 412 steps.Set on a hill not far from Phnom Penh, with knockout views of the fertile deltas and emerald green rice fields of Cambodia’s deep south, this small but impressive Hindu temple predates Angkor Wat by 100 years.
It’s also where the party scene in Matt Dillon’s 2002 thriller "City of Ghosts" was filmed.
The old monks who live here are especially friendly, as are the neighborhood kids who’ll gladly take you down the ancient staircase to see the ruins of two additional sandstone temples built on the flats.
Getting there: Hire a taxi and driver for a half-day trip to Phnom Chissor for about US$20.
Alternatively, hire a moped for US$5 a day and follow Highway No, 2 south to Takeo. Turn left just before the 52-kilometer mark and follow the dirt road for four kilometers to the base of a hill. Entrance fee is US$2.
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Sambor Prei Kuk
The centerpiece of Sambor Prei Kuk is a gigantic three-sided, serenely smiling face, much like the one adorning the famous Bayon temple of Angkor Wat. The site of the ancient kingdom of Chenla, this 1,400-year-old city is home to a whopping 140 temples and monuments.
Without the maintenance crews that sanitize Angkor Wat, the square stone walls, shiva lingmans, lion sculptures and octagonal towers of Sambor Prei Kuk are fighting a losing battle against the jungle.
But that adds to the rawness of exploring it and also keeps the masses away.
For those seeking an Indiana-Jones experience in Cambodia, Sambor Prei Kuk is it.
Getting there: The nearest town, Kampong Thom, lies roughly half way between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Motorbike taxis from Kampong Thom’s central market take about two hours to reach the ruins 30 kilometers to the north. Expect to pay US$5-10 per person.
Koh Ker
Until 2004, Koh Ker was extremely difficult to reach, but a road linking it to Siem Reap has put it on the map. Built in the 10th century, this lost city was the Angkorian kings' last seat of power before they relocated to Angkor Wat and met their demise.
There are about 50 temples at Koh Ker, most of which remain ensconced in jungle.
The two most impressive are Red Temple, named after the color of the bricks and home to King Jayavarman IV’s old thrown room; and Kohmpang (Prasat Thom), a dazzling 65-meter-high semi-pyramidal temple structure and replica of mythical Mount Meru.
Getting there: Kok Ker lies 130 kilometers north of Siem Reap. Taxis charge anywhere from US$50-100 for a day trip, with fares depending on the state of the vehicle. Air-conditioning, four-wheel drive and working suspension cost more but are definitely worth it.
Entry is US$10.
There are a few basic food stands in front of Prasat Thom here but no accommodation, so you'll need to bring a tent or hammock if you want to stay the night and get the most out of the arduous journey.
Source: CNN
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